Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
